In The Kingdom of Happyness

              In the Kingdom of Happyness

          
                   It all started with one of my friends sharing a post about Bhutan on Facebook. The King, His Highness Jigme Khesar Namgyel Wangchuck was talking about how progress in Bhutan is measured in terms of Gross National Happiness and not Gross Domestic Product or GDP, as all other countries do. 

                      The decision was an instantaneous voluntary response on my part and I made the bookings etc. I was at the IGI Airport at around 10 am on the 18^th of June, all set to board the Druk Airways flight to Paro in Bhutan. We flew over white puffy and cottony clouds for about a little more than two hours and landed at the quaint looking Paro Airport of the ‘Thunder Dragon Kingdom’ or ‘Druk’. As I stepped into the beautifully carved and painted lobby for completing the immigration formalities, I imagined that I was at ‘Shangri La’ as described by James Conrad in his novel, the ‘Lost Horizon’, a book I had read almost 40 years ago at my grandpa’s place.

            As I stepped out, I could smell the clean fresh and pleasantly moist air, and the sky was absolutely blue with a few puffy, cottony clouds floating around. The emerald green Paro valley with the gurgling Paro Chu (river) looked so welcoming. My reverie was broken by a gentle voice that greeted me. It was Namgay Tenzin, our guide for the eight day long trip. I realised I was part of a group of 14 people from New Delhi, and we will be moving together through the different destinations in Bhutan. We were escorted to a Tempo traveller which was waiting for us. The driver too, like all other gentlemen, was attired in the traditional woven ‘Gho’, the National dress for men in Bhutan.

Our group in the traditional Bhutanese attire

Soon we were meandering our way through the Paro valley, along with the pretty Paro river, on our way to the capital of Bhutan, Thimphu. Namgay told us about the architectural design of the buildings in Bhutan, which followed a more or less similar pattern. The intricately carved wooden door and window frames, and awnings under the roof had colourful motifs of flowers, leaves and magical beings. He also told us of the legend of the Raven, monkey, rabbit and elephant which took care of the tree of life. The legend highlighted the importance of cooperation and team work.

            Soon we were at Thimphu and were at the gate of a beautiful resort which was going to be our home for the next three days. It was located at the bank of the beautiful Thimphu Chu and was surrounded by beautiful green hills full of colourful flowers. It was amazing to see the resort completely managed by women, from the reception to room service to the kitchen. They too were attired in the traditional Bhutanese clothes, Kira, Wonju and Toego, and had a lovely smile lighting up their faces. Care was taken to serve the food that was more suited to the Indian palate. The rooms were well appointed and the aura of kindness and caring was amazing!

The intricate carving inside the Thimphu Monastery

                       The next morning we were greeted with a sumptuous breakfast by the pretty girls looking after the catering, and soon after that we were picked up by our guide in the Tempo traveller and we were off to a sight seeing trip in and around Thimphu.

The Thimphu town

The Memorial Choeten

                 Soon after a quick lunch at the market place we drove up to the Buddha Point through Rhododendron, Juniper, Pine and Cypress forests. The drive was beautiful and the gigantic Buddha statue surrounded by the lovely Apsaras carrying flowers and offerings in golden containers was impressive.

Buddham Sharanam Gacchami

The Apsaras at Buddha point

                               We visited a nunnery on our way back and met some pretty Buddhist nuns engrossed in prayers. We could get a glorious view of the Thimpu Dzong which houses the Monastery, the secretariat and the King’s office.

The Thimphu Dzong

A monk in front of the Ministry Office

                                        The journey to Punakha was most picturesque as we climbed up to Dogchu La, located at the height od 3200 metres above sea level. The weather was beautiful and misty and we saw the 108 stupas or Choetens erected by the queen mother in memory of the soldiers who lost their lives in the 2003 war against the Insurgents from Assam. The fourth King Jigme Singhe Wangchuck himself led the army, which is unheard of in the present days.

The 108 Choetens at Dogchu La

                We descended about 1000meters into the Punakha valley to visit the beautiful Punakha Dzong which is the biggest and was established by Guru Rimpoche, known also as  Padmasambhava, or the ‘lotus born.’

The Punakha Dzong on the banks of Punakha river

                 After going through the grandeur of the ‘Punakha Dzong’, and hearing the description from our learned guide, we decided to trek up to the longest steel suspension bridge over the Punakha river. Walking on it was an amazing experience, as the bridge swayed to and fro. It was around 3pm and we met a few cherubic school children on their way back from school.

The suspension bridge on Punakha river

Children of Bhutan on the way back from school

               I had the good fortune of staying at the ‘Dragon’s Nest’ resort located on the banks of the beautiful Wangdue (ong-dee) river. I got to taste Su ja or butter tea and Ema Datchi ( a spicy dish made with chillies and Yak cheese) with red rice.

            The trek to the fertility temple through paddy fields was quite exciting and when we were told by our guide Namgay, about making a wish and checking it out by rolling three dice for the lucky number my interest was piqued. I did so after making an offering to the temple deity. To my surprise, I got the lucky number in the first throw and the promise of a wish fulfilment made my heart swell with happiness. The long drive all the way back to Paro was dreamy and picturesque as we drove uphill and downhill through the Oak, Juniper and Rhododendron forests.

Through the paddy fields to the fertility temple

                      The next morning brought us to the highlight of the trip; Trek to the ‘Taktshang’ Monastery also known as the ‘Tiger’s Nest’ Monastery. We reached the base camp at 8:30, and began our uphill trek through the heavily forested trail.

Guru Padmasambhava had meditated on the cliff in which this monastery is currently located. Legend has it that he had arrived on the back of a flying tigress who was none other than his Tibetan consort with magical powers. Padmasambhava or ‘Guru Rimpoche’ is also known as the secong Buddha in Bhutan, as he was responsible for spreading Buddhism in its present form in the kingdom.

                 The steep climb brought us face to face with the monastery, but we had to negotiate a deep gorge to reach there. It is said that about 800 steps have to be negotiated before getting to the next level of another steep ascent comprising of a another 150 steps. We finally reached the foot of the monastery where there was a beautiful water fall. Water never tasted better and cooler in my entire life!

The beautiful Paro Valley as seen on the way to Taktshang

Taktshang Monastery from the View Point

The Rhododendron blossoms on the way

The waterfall opposite the Tiger's Nest Monastery

            The monastery itself has to be negotiated through many steep steps, but it was the most rewarding spiritual experience of my life! The route on the way back was equally treacherous as it had started drzzling and the path became slippery. We managed to reach the base camp by 4pm, and the sight of the Tempo traveller waiting to ta
ke us back to the hotel was the most welcome sight.

The next day we were taken to another uphill drive to a pass called Chelle La, the highest motorable pass in Bhutan, located at the height of 4200 meters above sea level. It is a ridge from where we can see the Haa valley on one side and the Paro Valley on the other. The cold misty weather, the tall prayer flags, and the lovely wild flowers added to the beauty of the place and all of us went crazy clicking pictures and drinking in the ambience of nature.

The Haa Valley as seen from Chelle La

Amidst prayer flags, flowers and mountains at Chelle La

It was the last day, and we all came down the mountains with a heavy heart. It was pouring heavily when we reached the State museum at Paro. The displays were amazingly informative and gave a good insight into Buddhism as it is practised in Bhutan.

After a quick lunch at the market place we dashed down to the Farm house for some photo shoots in the traditional Bhutanese attire. I tried my hand at archery as well and we all got our pictures clicked with our guide and the driver as well.

As we drove back to the hotel the evening sky had become dark and we could see the glorious ‘Paro Dzong’ at a distance, with its twinkling lights and magical reflection in the waters of the river Paro.

The Paro Dzong by night


       Next morning it was time to say good bye to friends, our gracious hosts, and the beautiful ‘Kindom of Happyness’.

            The feeling of leaving such a beautiful place cannot be exactly termed as happy; yet the peace and contentment felt after a lovely, tranquil vacation is going to stay in my heart for ever!

                                                             

                                                                 Goodbye Bhutan! Till we meet again!

More on Kedarnath

The setting sun lights up the Swargarohini Peak
On the way to Kedarnath

The Bhairon Nath Shrine overlooking the Kedarnath town

This sadhu has not cut his hair since 1980

The Bharo

Journey to heaven

Where shall we go this summer? was the question that came up last summer. Manasi,my daughter and I decided to make it to the mountains to cool off after the hectic time we had, organising Radhika(my younger daughter's)wedding.So off the two of us went in search of some peace and tranquility to the Kedarnath mountains.We moved on, quite fast;taking in all the breath taking beauty of the garhwal hills, the small towns and villages we passed by and reached the crowded and small town of a million ponies and some horses.We felt as though we were characters in Gullivers "Land of the Hunims".We stayed in a 6x6ft room with barely any space to move about and rendered speechless by the deafening roar of the Mandakini cascading down a gorge close to our tiny window.The pony man was fixed, and we were to get up and move at three in the morning on our 16km journey to kedarnath. it was dark,there was a constant drizzle and the ground was a pile of horse/pony dung! well never realised that one has to journey thru hell to get a glimpse of heaven!At 8 we were at Rambada a sort of midway camp where we had steaming hot chai and fat aloo parathas.Manasi wanted to take the goat track on foot and it was fun to see her catching up with us;suddenly she would appear out of nowhere and surprise me! The first breathtaking view of the snow covered mountains gave us an idea of what was in store, and by the time we reached Kedarnath town, we were surroundede by snow covered moutains from all directions;it was like entering the King's palace!Kalidasa hailed Himalaya as "Nagadhiraja" the king of mountains,and one has to see the granduer to believe it!A long wait,barefeet in the cold drzzle to visit the shrine was made exciting by the number of sadhus who stayed there and were quite a curious sight with their ash smeared bodies and long beards and constant demand for pot!the carvings of pandavas and various deities on the wall made the wait worthwhile and the main idol was a magnificent hump believed to be that of the disappearing Nandi,the celestial mount of Shiva.We went around the small town of kedarnath and then decided to take a trip to the Gandhi sarovar glacier.Off the two of us went on our ponies on a long winding path decorated with Ranunculus, Primula, Berberry, Periwinkle and many other bright and colorful angiospermic flora! Bravely we moved on;ducking under icey cold water falls, jumping wide chasms,and slipping thru frozen snow. Little did we know that a real scary event was lurking in the mist...suddenly the drizzle got heavy, a thick mist enveloped us and the path just vanished from under our feet; the ponies refused to move on and then we realised it was no time to stretch our luck. So,with a heavy heart we made an about turn;with a promise to return,better prepared, some day..
As we approached the town back again the sun was out and the mountains were awash in a golden hue, the stairway to heaven resplendent in its golden glory! No wonder the Pandavas abandoned everything and just went on moving up! such was the mesmerising beauty of the exquisite Kedarnath peak! We trekked up again; this time to a secluded shrine of Bhairon Nath. The view of the mist slowly enveloping the Kedarnath town and then leaving it, was like living a dream! Manasi made a short film of the entire scene. We met a little friend, a tiny mountain dog, a female pup, she was so annoyed with us because we had no biscuits to give,and we were too busy clicking piuctures!
As we rolled down the hill we could here the preparations for the evening arathi at the temple. The town was lit up like fairy land and the last glow of the setting sun made the snow cowered mountains appear like ethereal sentinals; witness to millions of years of prayer, penitence, reverence and awe!

Jai Ho!!!!

Jai Ho! Hail the Victorious!

Jai Ho! to team India,

to Rahman for breaking the sound barrier,

to Gulzar for the live canopy,

blue colured and festooned with brocade,

to Pookutty for getting the sound bytes right,

to Anil and his Jai Maharashtra!

to Danny and his boys,

for transforming the angst ridden 'rags to riches' story,

into a whoopee!we've done it!

to the underdog who has arrived on the red carpet,

to all those who believe,

that the best is brought out,

when we just are we,

the way god meant us to be,

Jai Ho!

to all those who dance,

with gay abandon; to the tune of the piper,

under the living, blue,brocade festooned canopy!

angst

Angst

Folklore, Myth, Mythology,Tradition;
we have vowen a web of enchanting falsehood.
Ganga Tripathgamini, Paapnashini, Mokshadayini!
we immerse all that we can lay our hands on ,
into your fluid presence,
and hope to be absolved of sins.
we chant hymns, light lamps,perform rituals,
pray to you,
address you as Uttamanga-the ultimate
in womanhood,
mother of all beings, great and small.
and then; trap you in tunnels,
force you to fall from great heights,
order you to lay silent in a pool of murky sediments,
all in the name of Development!
to light up malls, and stalls and banquet halls,
a tale of wanton greed and avarice!
Where are all those who broke one house of god
to 'rebuild' another,
those who screamed themselves hoarse,
while torching down houses,
and trains full of fellow humans,
all in the name of god,
the 'Ramifications' run deep:
and electoral rhetorics flow cheap;
why can't anyone see
that nothing can be built,
by twisting turning, arresting,chipping and chopping,
Bonsais however cleverly crafted, do not make forests;
can humanity afford to pay the price?
i wonder what section of IPC spells out the penalty
for murdering a river and its thousand daughters,
of cementing river beds and oceans,
of robbing the flora and fauna, of their fundamental right to exist
it is the Angst-existentialist or otherwise, i share;
an impotent,, helpless rage seething deep inside,
i can hear the lamentations of the bird, that fouled its own nest,
and choked its own kin,all in the name of some vague, misplaced technology!