In the Kingdom of Happyness
It all started with one of my
friends sharing a post about Bhutan on Facebook. The King, His Highness Jigme
Khesar Namgyel Wangchuck was talking about how progress in Bhutan is measured
in terms of Gross National Happiness and not Gross Domestic Product or GDP, as
all other countries do.
The decision was an instantaneous voluntary response on my part and I made the bookings etc. I was at the IGI Airport at around 10 am
on the 18th of June, all set to board the Druk Airways flight to
Paro in Bhutan. We flew over white puffy and cottony clouds for about a little
more than two hours and landed at the quaint looking Paro Airport of the ‘Thunder
Dragon Kingdom’ or ‘Druk’. As I stepped into the beautifully carved and painted
lobby for completing the immigration formalities, I imagined that I was at
‘Shangri La’ as described by James Conrad in his novel, the ‘Lost Horizon’, a
book I had read almost 40 years ago at my grandpa’s place.
As I stepped out, I could smell the
clean fresh and pleasantly moist air, and the sky was absolutely blue with a
few puffy, cottony clouds floating around. The emerald green Paro valley with
the gurgling Paro Chu (river) looked so welcoming. My reverie was broken by a
gentle voice that greeted me. It was Namgay Tenzin, our guide for the eight day
long trip. I realised I was part of a group of 14 people from New Delhi, and we
will be moving together through the different destinations in Bhutan. We were
escorted to a Tempo traveller which was waiting for us. The driver too, like
all other gentlemen, was attired in the traditional woven ‘Gho’, the National
dress for men in Bhutan.
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| Our group in the traditional Bhutanese attire |
Soon we were meandering our way through the Paro valley,
along with the pretty Paro river, on our way to the capital of Bhutan, Thimphu.
Namgay told us about the architectural design of the buildings in Bhutan, which
followed a more or less similar pattern. The intricately carved wooden door and
window frames, and awnings under the roof had colourful motifs of flowers,
leaves and magical beings. He also told us of the legend of the Raven, monkey,
rabbit and elephant which took care of the tree of life. The legend highlighted
the importance of cooperation and team work.
Soon we were at Thimphu and were at
the gate of a beautiful resort which was going to be our home for the next
three days. It was located at the bank of the beautiful Thimphu Chu and was
surrounded by beautiful green hills full of colourful flowers. It was amazing
to see the resort completely managed by women, from the reception to room
service to the kitchen. They too were attired in the traditional Bhutanese
clothes, Kira, Wonju and Toego, and had a lovely smile lighting up their faces.
Care was taken to serve the food that was more suited to the Indian palate. The
rooms were well appointed and the aura of kindness and caring was amazing!
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| The intricate carving inside the Thimphu Monastery |
The
next morning we were greeted with a sumptuous breakfast by the pretty girls
looking after the catering, and soon after that we were picked up by our guide
in the Tempo traveller and we were off to a sight seeing trip in and around
Thimphu.
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| The Thimphu town |
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| The Memorial Choeten |
Soon after a
quick lunch at the market place we drove up to the Buddha Point through
Rhododendron, Juniper, Pine and Cypress forests. The drive was beautiful and
the gigantic Buddha statue surrounded by the lovely Apsaras carrying flowers
and offerings in golden containers was impressive.
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Buddham Sharanam Gacchami
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| The Apsaras at Buddha point |
We visited a
nunnery on our way back and met some pretty Buddhist nuns engrossed in prayers.
We could get a glorious view of the Thimpu Dzong which houses the Monastery,
the secretariat and the King’s office.
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The Thimphu Dzong
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| A monk in front of the Ministry Office |
The journey
to Punakha was most picturesque as we climbed up to Dogchu La, located at the
height od 3200 metres above sea level. The weather was beautiful and misty and
we saw the 108 stupas or Choetens erected by the queen mother in memory of the
soldiers who lost their lives in the 2003 war against the Insurgents from
Assam. The fourth King Jigme Singhe Wangchuck himself led the army, which is unheard of in the present days.
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| The 108 Choetens at Dogchu La |
We descended
about 1000meters into the Punakha valley to visit the beautiful Punakha Dzong
which is the biggest and was established by Guru Rimpoche, known also as Padmasambhava, or the ‘lotus born.’
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| The Punakha Dzong on the banks of Punakha river |
After going
through the grandeur of the ‘Punakha Dzong’, and hearing the description from
our learned guide, we decided to trek up to the longest steel suspension bridge
over the Punakha river. Walking on it was an amazing experience, as the bridge
swayed to and fro. It was around 3pm and we met a few cherubic school children
on their way back from school.
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| The suspension bridge on Punakha river |
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| Children of Bhutan on the way back from school |
I had the
good fortune of staying at the ‘Dragon’s Nest’ resort located on the banks of
the beautiful Wangdue (ong-dee) river. I got to taste Su ja or butter tea and
Ema Datchi ( a spicy dish made with chillies and Yak cheese) with red rice.
The trek to the fertility temple
through paddy fields was quite exciting and when we were told by our guide
Namgay, about making a wish and checking it out by rolling three dice for the
lucky number my interest was piqued. I did so after making an offering to the
temple deity. To my surprise, I got the lucky number in the first throw and the
promise of a wish fulfilment made my heart swell with happiness. The long drive
all the way back to Paro was dreamy and picturesque as we drove uphill and
downhill through the Oak, Juniper and Rhododendron forests.
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| Through the paddy fields to the fertility temple |
The
next morning brought us to the highlight of the trip; Trek to the ‘Taktshang’
Monastery also known as the ‘Tiger’s Nest’ Monastery. We reached the base camp
at 8:30, and began our uphill trek through the heavily forested trail.
Guru
Padmasambhava had meditated on the cliff in which this monastery is currently
located. Legend has it that he had arrived on the back of a flying tigress who
was none other than his Tibetan consort with magical powers. Padmasambhava or
‘Guru Rimpoche’ is also known as the secong Buddha in Bhutan, as he was
responsible for spreading Buddhism in its present form in the kingdom.
The steep
climb brought us face to face with the monastery, but we had to negotiate a
deep gorge to reach there. It is said that about 800 steps have to be
negotiated before getting to the next level of another steep ascent comprising
of a another 150 steps. We finally reached the foot of the monastery where
there was a beautiful water fall. Water never tasted better and cooler in my
entire life!
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| The beautiful Paro Valley as seen on the way to Taktshang |
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| Taktshang Monastery from the View Point |
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| The Rhododendron blossoms on the way |
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| The waterfall opposite the Tiger's Nest Monastery |
The monastery itself has to be
negotiated through many steep steps, but it was the most rewarding spiritual
experience of my life! The route on the way back was equally treacherous as it
had started drzzling and the path became slippery. We managed to reach the base
camp by 4pm, and the sight of the Tempo traveller waiting to ta
ke us back to the
hotel was the most welcome sight.
The next day
we were taken to another uphill drive to a pass called Chelle La, the highest
motorable pass in Bhutan, located at the height of 4200 meters above sea level.
It is a ridge from where we can see the Haa valley on one side and the Paro
Valley on the other. The cold misty weather, the tall prayer flags, and the
lovely wild flowers added to the beauty of the place and all of us went crazy
clicking pictures and drinking in the ambience of nature.
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The Haa Valley as seen from Chelle La
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Amidst prayer flags, flowers and mountains at Chelle La
It was the last day, and we all came
down the mountains with a heavy heart. It was pouring heavily when we reached
the State museum at Paro. The displays were amazingly informative and gave a
good insight into Buddhism as it is practised in Bhutan.
After a quick lunch at the market
place we dashed down to the Farm house for some photo shoots in the traditional
Bhutanese attire. I tried my hand at archery as well and we all got our
pictures clicked with our guide and the driver as well.
As we drove back to the hotel the
evening sky had become dark and we could see the glorious ‘Paro Dzong’ at a
distance, with its twinkling lights and magical reflection in the waters of the
river Paro.
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The Paro Dzong by night
Next morning
it was time to say good bye to friends, our gracious hosts, and the beautiful
‘Kindom of Happyness’. |
The feeling of leaving such a
beautiful place cannot be exactly termed as happy; yet the peace and
contentment felt after a lovely, tranquil vacation is going to stay in my heart
for ever!
Goodbye Bhutan! Till we meet again!
